Day 44: Hay Springs, NE to Harrison, NE

I made it to salvation (otherwise known as Walmart) and headed straight for the bike section.  I grabbed the last two tubes they had that would fit my bike, then searched for the other item I’d been lusting after: tire liners!  These little strips fit inside your tires and help prevent punctures - exactly what my increasingly baloney-skinned wheels needed to hold me over.  And, of course, while I’d seen these things at every other Walmart I’d ever been in, they didn’t have them at this one.  What are the chances? (100%)  I’d have to continue to limp along and count on the good luck I’d had since I did the tire rotation to carry me through.

I stopped in Crawford for lunch and consulted with a group of guys who looked like they were part of a local road crew.  My prevaricating GPS had been gleefully telling me there was a big climb coming soon and I wanted to get a second opinion.  When I told the guys my route and that I was on a bicycle, there was a lot of laughing and shaking of heads (did I mention that it was well into the mid-90s by this time of the afternoon).  They confirmed that I had a big hill in about 5 miles.  I asked if they meant big in that it’s long, or because it’s steep?  They assured me that it was both.

They were right.  The good news was that I had amazing views as I slowly worked my way up past the buttes and increasingly dramatic landscape.  It took me the better part of three hours to reach the top, and I rewarded myself with a good long rest in the shade of a handy dumpster at the scenic overlook.  As soon as I got rolling again, I began to regret taking so much time lying about.  A river of ominously dark clouds was flowing toward me from the south and it wasn’t looking friendly.

I could see clear sky to the west, so I put my head down and poured what energy I had left into covering the four or five miles I needed to dodge this storm.  I didn’t see the flashing of lightning, but the threatening rumble of thunder came from high above the black clouds.  I was confident I could outrun the beast...until the wind hit.

The first blast almost knocked me off the road.  I pressed on and felt the drops of rain hitting the left side of my face.  I stopped to don my rain jacket and wrap a Walmart bag around my handlebar bag to keep it a little more water resistant.  These operations are usually only take a quick minute, but with the battering wind it was more of a challenge than usual as I fought just to keep my bike upright.  I remounted and resumed tacking against the wind.  I was half hoping a passing truck would stop and offer me a ride, but I wasn’t willing to stick my thumb out in the face of this one little land typhoon.

As I pedaled, I could see out across the vast plateau.  Directly to my south was the looming storm about to smash into me.  To the southwest were dark clouds dumping rains mainly on the plains.  To the northwest was another trail of gray clouds also pouring down rain.  There was a narrow gap of blue sky in front of me in the center of which hung the hazy sun on its way to setting.  It was strange being surrounded by all this inclement weather and still riding in the golden glow of an evening sun.

As much as the wind had checked my progress, I still managed to slip out from under the edge of the storm in time.  I hadn’t been rained on, but I was drenched from the inside out with sweat.  My hope that morning was to make it over the border into Wyoming, but I was grateful to make it to the town of Harrison, just inside the Nebraska border.  At the Longhorn Saloon I was served up an excellent mushroom swiss burger and a delectable order of onion petals.  There were a couple places to camp in town, but with all the rain going around I was more interested in finding indoor accommodations.

Once again I was saved by local knowledge.  The bartender let me know that the Sage Motel, which Google listed as permanently closed, was open for business.  I made my way there in the dark and rang the night bell.  A gentleman in bare feet and a flannel robe adorned with covered wagons opened the office door and checked me in.  It turned out to be a cozy place, but as soon as I plugged in all my devices to recharge I was too asleep to appreciate the place’s rustic charm.

What I Learned: Every once in a while you need to stop and take a look back.  I mean this literally.  I was about three-quarters of the way up the big climb when I was beginning to get grouchy about the top not coming fast enough.  I stopped for a short break and for the first time turned around and looked behind me.  Not only was I treated to a stunning view that I would have otherwise missed, but I was also able to see what I had accomplished so far.  This provided the lift in spirits that I needed to carry me to the top with a much better attitude. 

This also applies metaphorically.  It’s easy to get hung up on the problems and difficulties ahead of us, but taking some time to reflect on what you’ve achieved to get to where you are and appreciate the panoramic vistas of your past successes will give you a renewed sense of strength that will carry you forward with newfound vigor and confidence.  Give it a try right now!

Distance Today: 71 miles
Total Distance: 2,247 miles